What is Couture?

Couture is shorthand for "Haute Couture", which is French for "High Fashion".  In practice, it means the craft of making clothing items specifically for one individual. These items are usually designed, patterned, and constructed from scratch, and frequently include hand sewn details and expensive or unique fabrics and trims.

In contrast to "high fashion" where a designer draws something and it is constructed (usually by someone else) in a stock "size six" then a model is chosen who can fit into it to display it on a catwalk, true Couture houses make each item from a client's actual body measurements and tastes, no two garments ever alike. Because these items are not mass produced in any regard, they are more expensive and time consuming to craft.

While the term "Couture" is a fairly modern phrase evocative of 1950's Parisian fashion, clothing construction has been done in exactly this manner for centuries. It is not limited to western or even modern fashion. It happily encompasses all cultures and time periods, and even complete fantasy, theatre, and dance costume.

Coture Steps: Design, Drafting, Fitting, and Construction


1. Design Sketching

If a client knows exactly what they want, they will often bring photographs, sketches, literary descriptions, or still frames from movies to illustrate their ideals.  However, it usually necessary to provide many of the details yourself. Not everyone is as creative and artistic as you are, so being able to "see" what they are asking for takes practice and many questions such as: "Do you like the shape of this bodice, or just the fabrics used? Describe to me which parts of it are important to you."  A final sketch or artist's rendering is provided along with fabric swatches for approval.

2. Pattern Drafting

Drafting can be done with either flat-patterning from basic stock bases (if your client is average), from scratch, or from pure draping.

Pre-drawn bases can give you a decent starting point to work from, but require a fair amount of tweaking to fit your client's shape properly. Most "name brand" patterns fall under this category, but are frequently of poor quality.

Drafting a flat pattern from scratch requires a solid understanding of math, geometry, and ability to use printed guides for sizing. The benefit of flat-scratch patterns is that they need only basic alterations and are good for especially tall, round, or short frames.

Draping a pattern requires more time with your client, but much less time spent on alterations and drafting complex or unique pieces. Rectangular pieces of fabric are pinned loosely together and the "seams" are pinned together and clipped to conform exactly to your client's body. This method is highly accurate, but requires a good understanding of where seams should lay to give the best look/lines. Necklines, waist lines, and armholes are drawn directly onto the toile fabric. After fitting, the pieces are cut at the pinned seam lines to give you your very exact flat pattern pieces.

3. Toile Fitting

Once your pattern is constructed, a mock-up version of each piece should be made in a fabric that behaves similarly to your finished fabric (a floppy thin fabric for silks, a stiffer fabric for wool suitings, etc). The mock-up ("toile") is sewn together loosely and your client tries this on. Adjustments are made where necessary to ensure that all of the parts fit and the curves lay smoothly.  This is then cut apart and used as your final pattern. 

4. Construction by machine and finishing by hand.

Each part of the garment is constructed in such a way that it is either neatly lined, or all fabric edges are bound, pressed, and tidy. Fasteners are attached by hand, and can be zippers, buttons, lacing holes or loops, or ties.. Trims, beading, and decorations are also typically added by hand.